Thursday night I went to Juarez .
I took some extra precautions. I took my credit cards out of my billfold, and ditched a pay stub. I wore faded blue jeans, to not look too well off, and a respectable snap front Western shirt, to not look expendable, and running shoes, in case my costume didn't work. The weather was ambiguous. I wore a lined flannel shirt for a jacket.
Only three soldiers were obvious at the foot of the pedestrian bridge. At least one other held the roof. He faced Juarez , an assault rifle slung on his back. I carried my shirt-jacket over my shoulder, draped over my backpack. The soldiers, five-six, and dark, didn't look at me.
I turned right at the toll booths, and slipped up a side street, past empty hulls of commerce, past the old Atomic Bar, where, in a previous life, the notorious Puente Negro gang scratched street names into the broken bathroom wall and the pool table was half covered in torn felt. The other half was naked slate. A couple of block down a grocery store, decorated in cardboard and lit by fluorescents, enjoyed the tepid business of evening regulars. Next door a barber sat in his own chair.
It was the day the journalist got killed, shot, in his car, in front of his home. Armando Rodriguez worked the police beat for the Diario. I'd sifted through his recent bylines in the on-line archives. It was typical Mexican police reporting, long on the what, but short on the who and why. The day before he had reported on the gangland style shooting of two police officers sent to Juarez to investigate gangs. A week earlier he'd covered the decapitated corpse hung from a bridge. The head to that torso was recovered in a plastic bag at the foot of the monument to journalists. Maybe that message was too subtle.
I went to my favorite liquor store and picked up a bottle of sotol -- in the front door, out the back -- and crossed two blocks of newly bulldozed vacant lots. The renovation hasn't started, but the demolition has metastasized. I cut the corner, under the canopy of the old Pemex station, and turned right onto Mariscal.
The hookers weren't out yet, but the clip joint hawkers were working the sidewalks. I mostly ignored them, shaking my finger without raising my arm.
I was relieved to see the metal shutters rolled up above the doors to the Arbolito. Business morbidity is epidemic. And the Arbolito is caught between the hammer of an economic downturn and the anvil of civic reform. You can't fight city hall. Someday I'll show up and the shutters will be down and the windows dark, if the deconstruction machinery hasn't already leveled the place. But so far we've dodged that bullet.
Sergio sat at the end of the bar, and Conejo poured. I took the stool next to Sergio, and ordered an Indio and a sotol.
Before I finished sipping my shot, Vikingo came in. He's older now, but he's kept his wrestling name. Viki, the guys call him.
Dejame invitar un shot para el campeon, I said.
There's a xerox picture of El Vikingo behind the bar. In it, he wears his world championship belt. He must have been a welter or middleweight, and he's not far off it now.
Sergio moved heavily from his barstool with the deliberate inevitability of an avalanche and poured Vikingo a shot of tequila, the good stuff, and himself the chuchupaste. We toasted, and sipped our liquors.
Down the bar the conversation turned to extortion, the city's largest growth industry.
Who's doing it? I asked.
Quien sabe. Malandrinos.
Here's the word on the street: Who knows. Restaurants get torched. Some bars on the strip are paying, a thousand bucks a month. The used car lots have all closed down, in protest, or recognition. And who's doing it, who knows? Displaced drug industry workers or criminal entrepreneurs, taking advantage of the lawlessness.
People don't talk about the killings very much. That's probably a good idea.
I settled into my beer, and sotol. A guy came in and greeted Vikingo.
This is the guy I was telling you about, Vikingo said in Spanish. The violinist. Roberto Valdez, the brother of Aquiles.
Everyone knows, I said, that Aquiles is the best guitar player around here.
Ya viene, Roberto said. His blue eyes glistened in his animated face. He laid a soft case on a vacant table and took out his violin. He drew his bow, and the violin cried transcendental and laughed metamorphic. The violin talked with a woman's voice. I wanted to cry. Instead, I drank.
Then Aquiles came in. He took out his guitar, and set up his little foot stand, and played fills, runs and riffs, accompaniment to Roberto's violin. They played a couple of songs I recognized, and more songs I'd never heard, gypsy music, pizzicato. Roberto doubled up, and stuck two notes where only one was before, and then four. He strutted, working the room and my video camera.
Outside, police cars drove past with their lights flashing.
Roberto taught last at the Caracas Conservatory and now at the conservatory in Juarez , in the old ex-presidencia, the presidio behind the cathedral.
Tomorrow, perhaps, we'd read about murders in the paper. The blood of the innocent and less than innocent pooling indiscriminately in the gutters amongst macabre displays of animalistic savagery. Commercial terrorism and human sacrifice. Tomorrow we could face the devil, in the news and in the mirror. But tonight we had two world class concert hall musicians in a little dive bar cantina on a disreputable side street in downtown Juarez .
















S. Derrickson Moore
November 19, 2008
Rich Wright is a terrific writer. His trip to Juarez reads like a short story. Any books out, Rich?
sl
November 19, 2008
This is too Kool... I love the way you wrote it and the concept in general leads you in a world of mystic and illusion, yet your planted in reality and seduction. Great piece!
The video clip is a Classic, don't loose it... Those days are slowly leaving us and you were fortunate to be there "ROMANACIZING the moment." WOW!
Thanks and best regards.
Jennifer
November 19, 2008
Superb video, Rich! What a treat. Stay safe, please.
lv
November 19, 2008
Well. . . . you know!
someone
November 19, 2008
it makes me want to hold you when I think of you wanting to cry
MR CK
November 19, 2008
Superb video. Channeling Tevye. Great writing, great performance. You can be poor and be wealthy in talent. Almost surreal. Keep writing. Stay Brave! CK
MRW
November 19, 2008
Bravo, Bravo, and Mazel Tov!
jack
November 19, 2008
the best one yet Rich. The charm of old Mejico is dying slowly. Sadly. The video after the story did bring a tear for our friends across the border. You are the next Cormac. Now go put it all together and write a book.
Thanks for posting.
Ruth Hollands
November 20, 2008
Thank you for this moving article. I will show it to my son who plays the violin and who grew up in Segundo Barrio, with many a trip over the border.
God keep you safe.
Enrique Medrano
November 20, 2008
This piece and the video made the affection I have for Cd. Juarez, Chihuahua, Mexico and its good people swell up in me.
This video is one of the most beautiful things I have ever watched, especially in the context of all the surrounding evil and greed in which this simple, yet powerful, musical event was recorded by Rich Wright.
Thank you, thank you, Rich, for capturing this and sharing it with the world.
Bravo, Maestro Roberto! Bravo, Maestro Aquiles! Una interpretacion estupenda, maravillosa!!
Al Guapo
November 20, 2008
Great piece, Mr. Wright.
You take us there, and I'm thirsty for a chuchupaste now.
Suddenly I'm nostalgic for "the vanished Juarez of my youth," as described by the great sodden sage, Pendergrast.
Truth and observation, your finest qualities. Keep your head down and keep telling us about the siege of Juaritos.
Richard B
November 20, 2008
Great piece and beautiful video, Rich. Bravo.
Debbie Nathan
November 20, 2008
Sito, who is Jewish, emailed a link to Richard Wright's article and told me the video was better than the article. I had already read the article a day earlier but not clicked on the YouTube. Now I have and am full of conflicting feelings, which, as usual, are products of the great deepness of the border and also its aggravating superficiality.
Readers may have noticed by some elided comments following the article, that there's something Jewish going on with this piece ("Mazel Tov." "Tevye."). In fact, every single note that Aquiles plays comes from Fiddler on the Roof, a tragicomic play about immiserated, oppressed Jewish life in violence-ridden, impossible Eastern Europe in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Fiddler on the Roof is a paean to Jewish immigration to America. Immigration both legal and illegal (my grandmother escaped a pogrom to America, without documents to cross any borders) by disguising herself as a Christian peasant, complete with giant crucifix at her bosom. Sholom Aleichem, who wrote the original stories upon which Fiddler is based, wrote amazing stories (told from a child's point of view) about stealing across borders the same way that Mexicans today traverse deserts and swim rivers. Immiseration, violence. Mexicans, Jews. Aquiles' choice of this music -- which is also all-American Broadway music -- is ironic, sad, deep, funny, tender, undeniably cosmopolitan.
For the writer of the piece not to name the specific music is also sad -- but hardly ironic, funny, tender or cosmopolitan. It is simply parochial. Too bad. Unless Sito writes to everyone he knows -- Jews or not -- this fantastic piece of the piece will go unsung. Wish El Paso writers could get some scholarships to go into the world and strengthen their art!
Frannie
November 20, 2008
Reminiscent of the ending of "The Godfather" viz a viz the juxtaposition of the two events: the known, in the bar, with the romance of the musicians; and, the only imagined, presented in the sirens and police lights.
Richard Baron
November 20, 2008
Whereas all your observations might be true, Debbie, Rich wrote a different article than you would have written and it has its own insights, ones that you might have missed. Thanks for making the connections between the Mexicans and the Jews – very enlightening – but lighten up already. The elephant has many shapes.
d
November 21, 2008
this is an amazing story. as a "journalist" myself, i am quite envious of such beautiful writing.
and debbie, get off your high Jewish horse, yo!
UTEPMBA
November 21, 2008
WOW what a great story and video, this is what we are about to loose in Juarez, My city will never be the same. Bravo what a great video!!
Bobby Byrd
November 21, 2008
Debbie, I got to agree with Richard Baron (not a usual occurrence)--lighten up. The elephant is big and all of us…yeah, we're mostly blind and trying to figure out what the hell this thing is. Rich Wright’s piece is fine, good writing; the video likewise. Full of stuff to feed the imagination and to put me in my shoes to go back across. But scholarships to strengthen our arts? My gosh. Isn’t that's a tad patronizing? Or what is the word I'm looking for? Help me out.
sl
November 21, 2008
Once again, I have to express that this is an exceptional piece, video clip, and the more I read the comments and the story, I begin to shiver. Rich, I don't know you, I think..., but, you've brought El Paso back to life... No one can ever make us forget...!" and w/your foresight, we all enjoyed something that is "Peacefull..." sl
Snake tracker
November 22, 2008
Hemingwayesque
GL
November 23, 2008
Fantastic ... makes me want more
GCW
November 23, 2008
Do you need a publisher? Maybe I can help you find one.
Juan A. Sandoval
November 24, 2008
Richard is extremely talented and has shared a wonderful experience he captured in Ciudad Juarez with the rest of us. I was delighted to find out that Aquiles Valdez is alive and well. He taught guitar at UTEP for several years and produced a professional CD of his music about 17 years ago which I still treasure. Keep up the good work and I certainly look forward to Richard's collection of short stories in the near future.
Patty T.
November 24, 2008
I look forward to the offerings contributed by Rich; they are so rich and speak as sweetly as the music which accompanied this latest piece. NPT, applauds to you for featuring this fine writer.
4 Borders Pundit
November 25, 2008
Outstanding journalism. I had to comment on it at my blog.
Cousin Kenny
December 6, 2008
"a disreputable side street"...what better place to perhaps "face the devil" and dance the night away. Rich, my bro...no one seems to understand the fading pulse of Juarez or human sacrifice like a lanky gringo who likes fiddle music! Next...find us some plucky twang...no one can be unhappy when a banjo plays...
Extra well done.
cy vargas
December 10, 2008
haunting, stirring and moving...things are a changin'...